Nous avons rassemblé nos meilleurs conseils pour aider vos essentiels du dressing à durer plusieurs saisons. Quelques gestes simples dans votre routine d’entretien aident à garder vos pièces préférées au top plus longtemps, tout en réduisant l’impact environnemental de leur entretien et en prolongeant leur durée de vie.
Lavage
Ne lavez vos pièces que si c’est vraiment nécessaire. Chaque lavage use vos pièces et fait grimper votre consommation d’eau et d’électricité. Le plus souvent, un chiffon en microfibre humide ou une vieille brosse à dents suffisent pour enlever une tache, et vous pouvez rafraîchir vos pièces en les laissant respirer sur cintre à l’air libre plutôt que de les passer en machine.Lavez à froid.
La température recommandée sur l’étiquette
d’entretien correspond au maximum autorisé ; dans la plupart des cas, un cycle à plus basse température suffit à laver vos pièces. Important : Pour une hygiène irréprochable, le linge de lit et textiles similaires se lavent en machine à 60 °C.
Lavez vos pièces à l’envers, avec des couleurs similaires, pour éviter que les teintes ne déteignent et préserver leur aspect d’origine. Videz les poches et fermez les zips ainsi que les bandes autoagrippantes.
Placez les pièces en dentelle fine, brodées ou ornées (perles, sequins, appliqués…), ainsi que les collants en nylon, dans un filet de lavage afin d’éviter les accrocs en machine.
Chargez correctement votre lave-linge, sans le surcharger. Sinon, la machine manquera d’espace et vos vêtements ne seront pas lavés correctement .Choisissez une lessive écolabellisée et respectez toujours les dosages indiqués sur l’emballage. Pour éviter les faux plis, retirez vos vêtements du lave-linge dès la fin du cycle.
Séchage
De préférence, faites sécher vos pièces à l’air libre plutôt que de les passer au sèche-linge. Idéalement en extérieur. Faites sécher vos pièces colorées sur l’envers pour préserver les couleurs. Les pièces blanches, elles, à l’endroit : le soleil aide à maintenir un blanc éclatant. Non seulement le sèche-linge use vos vêtements, mais il consomme aussi beaucoup d’électricité.
Si vous optez pour le sèche-linge, glissez des balles de séchage pour réduire le temps de séchage, et pensez à nettoyer le filtre à peluches après chaque cycle pour maintenir des performances optimales. Séchez votre maille à plat. Séchez à plat, idéalement sur une serviette, pour préserver la coupe.
Repassage
Ne repassez vos pièces que si c’est vraiment indispensable. Non seulement le repassage abîme les matières de vos pièces préférées, mais il consomme également beaucoup d’électricité. Astuce : accrochez vos pièces dans la salle de bains pendant la douche ; la vapeur agit comme un fer à vapeur et lisse les plis. Repassez à température basse.
La température recommandée sur l’étiquette
d’entretien correspond à la température maximale pour le repassage. Toutefois, une température plus basse n’est pas toujours efficace.
Repassez vos pièces à l’envers ou utilisez un fer à vapeur : cela les préserve mieux.
Étiquetage d'entretien
Si l’icône de lavage est barrée, le vêtement ne se lave pas.
L’icône de la main dans la cuve signifie que votre pièce se lave uniquement à la main. Évitez de frotter, d’étirer ou de tordre le vêtement. À la place, pressez délicatement l’excès d’eau.
Le pictogramme de lavage avec un nombre précise la température maximale de lavage. Lavez à 30 °C maximum.
Une barre sous le pictogramme de lavage indique que la pièce se lave en machine, sur un cycle délicat. Lavez à 30 °C maximum.
Le pictogramme de lavage avec un nombre précise la température maximale de lavage. Lavez à 40 °C maximum.
Une barre sous le pictogramme de lavage indique que la pièce se lave en machine, sur un cycle délicat. Lavez à 40 °C maximum.
Le pictogramme de lavage avec un nombre précise la température maximale de lavage. Lavez à 60 °C maximum.
Le pictogramme de lavage avec un nombre précise la température maximale de lavage. Lavez à 95 °C maximum.
Séchage
Le carré avec une ligne verticale à l’intérieur indique que la pièce se sèche sur un fil, à l’air libre.
Le carré avec une ligne horizontale à l’intérieur indique que le vêtement se sèche à plat. Mieux vaut le poser sur une serviette.
Si l’icône du sèche-linge est barrée, pas de séchage en machine pour la pièce.
Un point dans l’icône du sèche-linge indique que la pièce se sèche en machine à basse température (jusqu’à 60 °C).
Deux points à l’intérieur du symbole du sèche-linge indiquent que la pièce peut être séchée en machine à température moyenne (jusqu’à 80 °C)
Repassage
Un X sur l’icône du fer indique que la pièce ne se repasse pas.
Le pictogramme de fer avec vapeur barrée indique que le vêtement ne se repasse pas à la vapeur (jusqu’à 120 °C).
Un point sur le pictogramme de repassage indique que la pièce se repasse à basse température (jusqu’à 110 °C). Fer à vapeur autorisé, à utiliser avec précaution.
Deux points sur l’icône du fer indiquent que vous pouvez repasser le vêtement à chaleur moyenne (jusqu’à 150 °C). Un fer à vapeur peut être utilisé.
Trois points sur l’icône du fer signifient que la pièce supporte un repassage à haute température (jusqu’à 200 °C). Un fer à vapeur peut être utilisé.
Nettoyage professionnel
Une croix sur le symbole du nettoyage à sec signifie que le vêtement ne se nettoie pas à sec.
La lettre P encerclée indique que la pièce peut se nettoyer à sec avec des solvants à base d’hydrocarbures. Un professionnel du nettoyage à sec saura traiter le vêtement et utiliser le solvant approprié pour un nettoyage optimal.
La lettre F encerclée indique que la pièce peut être nettoyée à sec avec tout type de solvant. Un professionnel du nettoyage à sec saura traiter le vêtement et utiliser le solvant approprié pour un nettoyage optimal.
La lettre W encerclée indique que la pièce peut être nettoyée par un professionnel selon un procédé de nettoyage humide. Un professionnel du nettoyage à sec saura traiter le vêtement de manière appropriée pour un nettoyage optimal.
La lettre W encerclée et barrée indique que la pièce ne passe pas au nettoyage professionnel à l’eau.
Blanchiment
Le triangle barré indique que le vêtement ne peut être blanchi.
Le triangle avec deux diagonales signifie que tu peux blanchir le vêtement, mais uniquement à l’eau de Javel non chlorée.
Le triangle vide signifie que la pièce peut être traitée avec n’importe quel agent blanchissant, y compris l’eau de Javel chlorée. Cela dit, limitez au maximum l'eau de Javel chlorée et optez pour un lavage à froid afin de préserver le tissu
The sooner you treat a stain, the easier it will be to remove. However, don't panic - some stains may require multiple attempts. Be patient and persistent, and don't give up easily!
Generally, always begin by absorbing excess stain with plain paper kitchen towel. Make sure to follow the care instructions on the garments care label and to test any cleaning method on a hidden part of the garment to avoid any unnecessary damage. For delicate materials or stubborn stains, consider seeking professional help from a dry cleaner. They have the expertise and tools to handle even the most challenging stains.
Ball point pen ink doesn’t suit any garments. Luckily, the ink can be removed. If the strokes are fresh soak the stained area in whole milk for 12 hours and wash as usual. If you want to begin treatment of a dry or old stain place your garment on a clean absorbent surface. Dab the stain with a cloth dampened with Surgical spirit. Repeat until the stain is gone. Add a bit of clear dish soap and wash as usual.
If the blood is fresh, rinse the stained area under cold running water. Gently rub the stain with your fingers or a soft cloth to remove as much blood as possible. Avoid using hot water, as it can set the stain. If the blood stain is dry, soak your garment in cold water with a bit of clear dish soap. After an hour gently scrub the stain with a soft brush, such as an old toothbrush. If the stain persists, let the garment soak for longer. Afterwards wash as usual. If your garment is made with wool soak your garment in cold water with salt overnight instead. Use 2 teaspoons per liter of water. Afterwards wash according to the garment's care instructions.
Wet the stained area with cold water and apply clear dish soap directly to the stain with a soft sponge as soon as possible. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 6-12 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards rinse with cold water and wash as usual.
TIf you want to begin treatment of an old stain. Wet the stain with cold water and apply baking soda to both sides of the fabric. Gently rub the baking soda into the stain with your fingers. Continue rubbing until the stain disappears. Rinse with cold water and wash as usual.
If your coUee stain is fresh rinse the stain through from the back with cold water until the stain is gone, and then wash as usual.
If the coUee stain is dry, start by rinsing the stain through from the back with cold water to ensure that the stain does not expand. Then, mix a bit of washing powder with a bit of cold water and pour it onto the stain. Let it sit for five minutes. Then, put the garments with coffee stains into a tub of water and rub the stain with your fingers. Let the garment soak for half an hour. Now the coUee stain should be as if sunk into the ground. Wash as usual.
If you want to begin treatment of an old coUee stain, start by wetting the stain well with liquid glycerin on both sides of the fabric and let it work for 6-12 hours in an airtight bag. Rinse the glycerin completely out of the fabric. Finally, wash as usual.
Start by applying glycerin onto the curry stain. Place the garment in an airtight bag to prevent the glycerin from drying. After 5-6 hours, pour some clear dish soap directly onto the stain and place the garment in the airtight bag again to prevent the soap from drying. After 5–6 hours, wash your garment as usual.
Apply clear dish soap directly to the foundation stain as soon as possible. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 12-24 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual. If the stain is very stubborn or old, you may dab a little surgical spirit on the stain and then wash it according to the washing instructions.
Fruit juice stains can pose a real challenge, especially on garments in delicate fabrics, but with a few tricks, you can remove them completely.
If your garment can withstand boiling water, boiling water is the most effective way to tackle a fruit juice stain. Simply place your garment on top of a sieve in the sink with the stain facing up. Pour boiling water directly onto the stain until the stain disappears. Afterwards wash as usual.
For garments that can't withstand boiling water or for more stubborn stains apply clear dish soap directly to the stain as soon as possible. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 6-12 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual. Use the same method if you want to begin treatment of an old stain.
Grease stains from high-fat foods often leave stubborn marks on your garments. Fortunately, clear dish soap is an effective tool for removing these stains. Start by applying clear dish soap directly to the stain as soon as possible. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 6-12 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual. Use the same method if you want to begin treatment of an old stain.
White garments often develop a grayish or yellowish tinge over time. The simplest, most affordable, and environmentally friendly approach is sun bleaching. By air-drying your white laundry in the sun, you can harness its natural bleaching power. The sun's ultraviolet rays act as a natural bleaching, effectively whitening your garments.
If the sun is hiding and your garment care label allows chlorine bleach, you can prepare a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 10 parts cold water in a tub. Place your garment in the tub for at least two hours. After soaking, wash the garment as usual, following the care instructions on the label.
A tiny old spot on your white garments can be removed by gently dabbing with a cotton swab with chlorine. Place a plain paper kitchen towel underneath before starting dabbing with chlorine. Chlorine bleach can be harsh on fabrics, so use it with extraordinary caution.
Apply clear dish soap directly to the lipstick stain as soon as possible. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 6-12 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual. If the stain is very stubborn or old, you can dab a little rubbing alcohol (husholdningssprit) on the stain and then wash it according to the washing instructions.
For non-waterproof mascara, apply clear dish soap directly to the mascara stain as soon as possible. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 12 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual. For waterproof mascara, gently dap away the stain with a clean cotton cloth dipped in white spirit. If there is any remaining colour apply clear dish soap directly to the stain. Gently rub the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 5-6 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual.
Place your garment on an absorbent surface. Gently dab the stain with oil-free acetone. Continuously absorb with a plain paper kitchen towel. Wash as normal. Don’t use acetone for garments containing acetate, for example: sportswear and lining.
Rinse the garment under cold, running water as quickly as possible. Use cold water, as hot water can set the stain. Let the water flow through the stain while gently rubbing the aUected area with your hands or a soft cloth. Pour a small amount of dish soap directly onto the stain and place the garment in an airtight bag for 5-6 hours to prevent the soap from drying out.
Afterwards, wash the garment according to the care instructions on the label, using the hottest water temperature safe for the fabric. If the stain persists or you want to treat an older stain, carefully pour a small amount of glycerin over the stained area, ensuring it completely covers the stain. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 5-8 hours to prevent the glycerin from drying out. Afterwards, wash the garment according to the care instructions on the label, using the hottest water temperature safe for the fabric.
Take a clean, absorbent plain paper kitchen towel and gently blot up as much excess soy sauce as possible, acting quickly to prevent the stain from setting. Pour a small amount of white vinegar onto the stained area, making sure it covers the entire stain. Use a cotton swab or a clean plain cloth to gently dab the vinegar into the stain. Sprinkle a small amount of laundry detergent directly onto the stain. Gently rub the detergent into the fabric with your fingers. Rinse the stained area thoroughly with cold water until all traces of the detergent and the soy sauce stain are gone.
Avoid using hot water, as this can set the stain, making it more difficult to remove. Repeat the process if the stain is still visible, and then wash the garment as usual, following the care instructions on the care label.
Sweat and deodorant can leave yellow marks on your garments, especially on white and light-colored garments. To remove these marks, create a thick paste by mixing 1 part baking soda with 2 parts of water. Apply the paste generously to the marked areas, ensuring it covers the entire areas. Allow the paste to sit on the marks for 2 hours. After 2 hours, scrub the marks with a mixture of water and lemon juice. You can use a soft brush or a plain cloth for this. Wash the garment as usual, following the care instructions on the label, using the highest water temperature safe for the fabric.
Tomato sauce and ketchup stains can leave visible red marks on your garments. To remove a stain, apply clear dish soap directly to the stain as soon as possible. Rub gently to work the soap into the fibres of the fabric. Place the garment in an airtight bag for 6-12 hours to prevent the soap from drying. Afterwards wash as usual. If the stain persists or you want to begin treatment of an old stain, then white spirit can be a solution.
Apply a small amount to a clean white cloth and dab at the stain. Use another clean cloth to absorb the solvent and stain. Repeat until the stain is gone, then wash the garment as usual. Remember to test the use of white spirit on an invisible area of the garment to ensure it does not cause damage to the fabric.
All the advice has been tested by the team in PIECES' head quarter. Following these tips is at your own risk. Be aware that some of your garments are delicate and may not withstand harsh treatment. For example, silk. If you are in doubt, always test the treatment in a less visible place first to ensure it does not damage your garments. For stubborn stains or delicate materials, it may be best to seek professional help from a dry cleaner.
If you discover loose threads or small holes in your nylon tights, you can easily prevent them from expanding. Apply some clear nail polish or hairspray directly to the open area of the run or hole on both sides of the tights. Be sure to cover the entire area where the fabric is weakened, but only use a small amount of product to avoid staining or stiffening the entire tight. Let it dry completely before putting on your tights. This will give the product time to set and stiffen the fabric.
If your zipper isn't sliding smoothly or is stuck, you can easily get it working again. Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly, lip balm, or a similar lubricant (even candle wax in a pinch) directly to the teeth of the zipper, both on the front and back sides. Work the zipper up and down a few times to distribute the lubricant. Repeat if the zipper starts sticking again. If your zipper is broken, a tailor or seamstress can replace your zipper.
Lightly apply hairspray to your white shirt collars before wearing. Focus on the areas that come into contact with your face, such as the inner collar and the neckline. Let the hairspray dry completely before putting on your shirt. Hairspray acts as a protective layer, preventing makeup from adhering to the fabric of your collar.
Dust and stray hairs make especially dark garments look dirty and worn. Simply use a lint roller to remove dust and stray hairs from your garments, giving them a fresh, just-washed look.
With regular use, pilling will build up, making your garments look old and worn. Use an electric fuzz remover to remove pilling from your garments. This will especially leave your knits and sweatshirts with a smooth and fresh look. Always use the electric fuzz remover carefully to avoid damaging your garments.
Avoid hanging your knitwear in your closet. The weight of the garment can cause it to stretch and lose its shape over time, leading to a baggy and misshapen appearance. Instead, fold your knit sweaters neatly and store them flat on a shelf or in a drawer, ensuring they retain their original shape and avoid becoming misshapen. By following this simple tip, you can help preserve the original shape of your knitwear and prevent it from becoming misshapen, ensuring it looks its best.
To keep your knits looking their best, prevent further unraveling by carefully pulling loose threads to the inside of your knitwear. If you find it challenging to do this by hand, carefully insert a needle threader through your knit from the inside, right next to your loose thread. Thread the loose thread through the eye of the needle threader and gently pull the needle threader back, bringing the loose thread with it to the inside. Do not cut o@ the loose thread. Repeat this process for any other loose threads you find.
After each swim, give your bathing suit a thorough rinse with cool, fresh water. This will remove salt, sand, sunscreen, or chlorine, preventing these elements from damaging the fabric over time. A quick rinse is often all you need; a full machine wash isn't necessary after every use. Before washing or rinsing, untie any straps on your bathing suit, ensuring they are fully clean and don't become tangled, preserving their shape and elasticity. To preserve the color and vibrancy of your bathing suit, air-dry it inside-out, protecting the fabric from fading and damage caused by direct sunlight and heat. By following these simple care tips, you can keep your swimwear looking its best and lasting longer.
Denim is known for aging gracefully, becoming cooler and more authentic looking over time. Developed as workwear, denim's durability is undeniable. To maintain the shape, color, and texture of your favorite denim pieces, wash them as rarely as possible and avoid using the tumble dryer. We recommend you follow our recommendations for washing, drying, and ironing to prolong the life of your denim.
New denim, especially dark and black denim, may release excess dye and transfer color onto lighter-colored garments, shoes, and furniture. We recommend washing new denim by itself, wearing dark underwear and dark tops the first few weeks, and folding the bottom of your new jeans to avoid excess dye transferring onto your white sneakers. When doing this, the inside of the denim fabric is closest to the sneakers and therefore won't rub o@ as much.
Both sunlight and electric light may cause denim to fade or discolor. Store your denim inside out if your wardrobe is exposed to light to prevent fading. To prevent wrinkles, fold your denim along the seams when storing it in your wardrobe.
With use comes wear and tear. Belt loops are the weakest points of a pair of jeans. Use them only for your belt, not to pull on your jeans. If your jeans need repairing, we encourage you to do so yourself or seek professional help. With proper care and repair your denim will age beautifully and serve you for years.
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